DORIS IN THE MOUNTAINS I didn’t expect to be saying this but we need some rain! Well, not us exactly, but this area of Morocco didn’t have any rain last year; and it doesn’t look as if they are going to get any this year; their rainy season being January and February.

We are now in Tafroute; about 4,000 feet up in the Anti Atlas and 100 K from the West coast. And this is the most breathtaking place. Pete and I spent the journey from the coast to here going ‘ooh’ and ‘wow’ and ‘look at that’.

Friday (the 1^st of February) saw us on the road to Tafroute; and what a road it is. We gradually climbed up and up into the incredible scenery of the anti Atlas. Rocky orange and purple peaks towered all around; and the terraced slopes were green with little gardens while the black trunked almond trees were just breaking into blossom. In the valley bottoms were small palmeries. Flashes of purple bourganvillia and red hibiscus were interspersed with tiny spring flowers of yellow, pink, white and lilac, all along the roadside. In between the valleys and the higher slopes were Argane, prickly pear and the aromatic white broom coming into flower.

The villages (douars) we passed through looked quite prosperous; some of them with large new houses on their outskirts. We found out later that many Moroccans in this area work away, in Morocco and Europe, and return to build their mansions when they have made good. As we approached Tafroute the villages got even more idyllically pretty, with huge granite outcrops as dramatic backdrops. Some of the massive round boulders appeared to be perched precariously above the houses; looking as if about ready to career down the slopes and crush all in their path. But, evidently, this never happens.

We wild camped on an open stony plain, dotted with palm trees, argane and broom; just outside the official campsite at Tafroute. And here we met up again with Phil and Carol; last seen battening down the hatches at Plage Blanche, against the sand and wind. They had arrived the day before and Carol declared that this was the first place that she had really liked since setting foot in Morocco. And this was despite the children!

Everywhere you go in Morocco there are children; most of them friendly; a few stroppy and all curious with little regard for your privacy. We hadn’t been on site half an hour before we were surrounded by kids of all shapes and sizes. I blame Phil; the gentle giant. He’s six foot six at least and smiles at everyone. The children were intrigued to say the least, and hung around, even when it became clear that there were no ‘bon bons’ to be had.

“Avais vous le bon bon?” is the standard opening ploy from the youngsters. Pete and I have developed the response that sweets are bad for your teeth; whereupon they immediately ask for a ’stylo’ (pen). It would be nice to think that, if you gave them one, they would rush home and use it to do their schoolwork. But I suspect this is not the case. Everything gets bartered here!

 

Pete has enjoyed walking (scrambling I call it) up the nearest hills and we have both walked through the oases in the sunshine. The wind is a fickle creature here, blowing intermittently in cold gusts from any direction. And it’s so dry you feel dehydrated most of the time. Now we know why Moroccans keep covered up. It’s only the Europeans that bare their bodies to the elements here.

 

Despite the economies of wild camping we have spent more dirhams here than anywhere else we have been so far. Mainly on a fantastic carpet. Yes the piggies have been seduced by the best carpet salesman in the Anti Atlas; Mohammed by name, who, despite neverlearning to read and write, can speak seven languages fluently and has a smattering of Japanese. His arithmetic was pretty hot too; converting currencies with speed and accuracy.

 

We didn’t intend to buy one, seeing as we haven’t even got a front room to put it in yet; but we fell in love with one and decided to get it this year instead of next. Who knows what the future holds?

 

As a thank you for the privilege of spending so much money, I have promised to give him a plug on this blog so: For all your (luxury) carpet needs go to La Maison du Troc, Tafroute; tel: 048 80 05 36. For examples of their wares there should be some photos of same on this blog.

 

(editors note: click the 4 pics above for full size versions)

 

Today we are reluctantly leaving this place. We have only three more weeks in Morocco and there is still so much to see. We are going to avoid the tourist traps, such as Marrakech. Our next stop is Tata, via wild camping spots and then we are aiming for Azrou, after a quick look at the Draa valley and the Ziz gorge. More of that later folks.